Badami Part 1- Art In The Caves

We walked into a gaping hole in the mountain trying not to think about the pillars holding up the weight on top of us . This is Badami – located around 500 Km north of Bangalore , India’s tech Hub.

Cave art offer a fascinating insight into the life and times of ancestors. From the prehistoric etchings of the caveman to the elaborate sculptures that we see in Badami – they all have stories to tell. When etched on a majestic red rocky mountain overlooking a lake it takes on undeniable charm. Badami is one place where your thirst for adventure and history can be satiated simultaneously. The cave art appeals to your senses while ample opportunities for trekking and rock climbing provides the adrenaline rush .

Viewing from far the cave looks like just another natural formation. Human enterprise helped morph these into galleries displaying stylized works of art. At one point in time these were functioning spiritual retreats.

Where

Here is a place where time has progressed slowly. People still gather firewood and the roads are not meant for gas guzzling monsters. But don’t let the dusty roads and the easy village ambiance fool you. Just a little away from all these lie breathtaking works of art.

Why should you go

6^th century carvings set in an enchanted backdrop of imposing mountains , need I say more ? The majestic landscape provides the perfect backdrop for spiritual contemplation , wonder or adventure .

There are four caves carved into the sandstone and a small natural cave . A short drive from the center of the city takes you to the entrance of the caves . Buy the tickets and climb a few steps to reach the first cave. This cave is dedicated to Lord Siva and numerous carvings of Siva in different poses can be found throughout . Don’t forget to glance up the ceiling as well , there are beautiful depictions of mystical as well as amorous nature . Caves 2 & 3 are dedicated to Lord Vishnu and cave 4 is dedicated to the Jain Tirthankaras . There is a natural cave with a Buddhist shrine as well .There are impressive carvings of Lord Vishnu in Caves 2 & 3 as well as beautiful carvings of gods , goddesses , and animals .

Of all cave 3 is the largest and the grandest. Here again there are beautiful carvings and paintings on the walls and ceilings . Cave 4, the Jain cave, is the smallest and built around 100 after the others. Almost every inch of the cave surface is intricately carved. The view of the valley and the lake from here is breathtaking .

Getting there

The nearest railway station is Badami . From Bangalore to Badami there are regular train services . You can get around the city in rickshaws . But like us if you decide to drive remember the approach roads to the attractions are very narrow , winding through the a heavily populated old part of the town . There are quite a lot of opportunities to capture rural life.

It is definitely not a day trip from any of the major cities nearby , but this part of Karnataka has a lot of historical attractions, Pattadakal and Aihole come to mind, that are definitely worth a few days.

A bit of History

Stone age tools and paintings are found near here, pointing to human settlement here long back. The main tourist attraction – the temple carvings – were estimated to be created during the reign of the Chalukya dynasty. In the 6^th century Pulakesi established Chalukya dynasty with Badami (known then as Vatapi ) as the capital. These caves were believed to be commissioned in 6th & and early 7th century .

And some mythology .. As with many of the places with spiritual or religious importance this town too features in Hindu mythology, and yes this one has gore , plenty of …

As the story goes Vatapi and his brother Ilavala were two Asura (demons) who used feed on unsuspecting travelers . Ilavala used to invite the travelers in and serve them delicious food prepared out of Vatapi’s body. Once the meal is over Vatapi’s body would break out of the traveler’s stomach’s on Ilavla’s command, thus killing the unsuspecting traveler. Suffice to say that they robbed the travellers first and then fed on them. One day Sage Agastya happened to be the unsuspecting traveler. Sensing their intentions Sage Agustya commanded Vatapi to be digested before his brother could revive his body parts , thus ending their reign of terror . The town became known as Vatapi and the the lake in the valley as Agastya Tirta .

If you go , definitely pack hiking shoes , water , first aid kit, camera , well wrapped snacks and flash light . If you are into hiking plan to spend a day here. There are a few reasonable accommodations nearby . If you are adventurous do try the street food, they sure smelled good .

Travelling With Kids .. climbing up to the caves is not difficult . Most kids can easily manage on their own . Be aware of the inquisitive monkeys. Keep food and drinks well hidden. On weekends and holidays expect a good crowd.

Part 2